After finishing the WS2812 smart glasses I thought could I use this platform for different projects. I’ve wanted to make a TV B Gone for awhile now but haven’t gotten around to it. I set the challenge for myself to see if I could fit one into a pair of sunglasses, Joint me below to see if I pulled it off
- AAAA lipo battery
- 2n2222 transistor
- SMD push button
- SMD switch
- DD0505MD 5V Charge Pump DC DC Converter
- IR LED 940mn
As before I used a AAAA lipo battery out of a “disposable” e-cig.
I cut the arm of the sunglasses so the battery could fit. This time I cut just the bottom out of the arm instead of the middle of the arm.
With a bit of heat shrink tubing its all hidden
I have a 2 pin female head on the inside of the arm to charge it from one of these cheap lipo charger just like I did on my last pair of smart glasses because there wasn’t any room to fit one into the glasses.
I was looking all over the internet at the different ways people had done their Attiny85 powered TV B Gone. In the end I took most of the things from HERE but removed a few things. Here is my schematic below
Its probably the most stripped down circuit I could come put with that still worked. I used all SMD parts too to save space apart from the transistor because its what I had on hand.
I used a switch to turn it on and off to save power. I also used a button on the reset pin because once it has cycled thought all the different codes it stops so if you were too far from the TV or you wanted to turn it back on you just hit the reset button.
Just before I ordered the PCB’s oshpark came out with there new “afterdark” colour. Its basically black FR4 with a clear solder mask. I ordered them because I wanted to see what they were like and because they are black so it blended into the sunglasses too.
To program the Attiny85 you need to use a programming clip
Once the PCB was populated I simply attached it to the opposite arm to the battery with some double sided foam tape
I ran the wires from the battery to the PCB in the inside of the sunglasses rim, Securing it in place with super glue.
The IR LED I used was a 940nm I even found one that was tinted so it would blend into the fount of the sunglasses. The only place I could find to mount the LED was on the bridge but I had to cover the back of the LED with hot glue to insulate it from your face. I also ran the wires from the PCB to the LED on the inside of the rim.
TV-B-Gone attiny85 firmware – http://learn.adafruit.com/system/assets/assets/000/010/192/original/tvbgone11.zip
Kicad board files – https://github.com/facelessloser/smart_glasses_tvbgone